NEW YORK - By the early 1970s, Michael Henry Adams found himself at a fashion crossroads, feeling unrepresented amidst the trends of bell bottoms and afros. Inspired by a previous visit to the Museum of Modern Art's "Harlem On My Mind" exhibit, where he admired the elegant style of Harlemites adorned in raccoon coats, fox coats, spangled gowns, and bowler hats, Adams discovered that there was another way for him to embrace his identity. This style, known as dandyism, became a significant part of his life and the recent Met Gala, which featured dandyism at the center of its theme, showcased its profound impact on fashion.
The "Superfine: Tailoring Black Style" exhibit, which is the Costume Institute's first display to focus exclusively on Black designers, emphasizes that Black dandyism goes beyond high fashion into everyday life. Adams remarked on the ingenuity and creativity found within the Black community's fashion expressions, noting that dandyism is an intrinsic part of their culture.
As the exhibit is set to open to the public, several dandies provided insightful tips for integrating dandyism into everyday style. The first and foremost tip is to start with confidence. Guy Wood, a 62-year-old co-owner of Harlem Haberdashery, stated that confidence plays a crucial role in how an individual presents their style. He emphasized that two people could wear the same outfit but appear entirely different, depending on their confidence. Similarly, Michael Andrew, a style consultant inspired by Fonzworth Bentley, noted that dandyism embodies personal taste and self-expression rather than ostentation.
Another core aspect of dandyism is opting for statement pieces. Dandies often highlight bold colors and fine tailoring, with each individual creating their unique style. For Wood, this includes wearing well-tailored suits paired with colorful brogue shoes. James McFarland, or "Gentleman Jim," an 80-year-old master tailor, explained the visually striking effect of well-fitted clothing, which draws people's attention. Each dandy has their signature element; Adams favors bow ties and hats, while Andrew values texture and patterns in accessories like stylish socks and pocket squares.
Creativity over cash is another principle among dandies. Wood encourages individuals to explore their creativity, suggesting that not having a high income should not be a barrier to style. He advises seeking inspiration from home, such as repurposing a family member's scarf. Adams added that individuality should always be prioritized in fashion choices, encouraging authenticity rather than conformity to trends.
Furthermore, there is a growing concern about the societal trend towards casualness, which has minimized the appreciation for well-dressed appearances. McFarland lamented that the tailoring profession does not receive the same recognition it once did, as many people no longer dress up. He, however, remains committed to teaching fine tailoring and hopes to reignite interest in the art through podcasts and other platforms. Andrew advocates for a revival of the pride associated with dressing well, reminding people of a time when they sought to present their best selves.
The "Superfine: Tailoring Black Style" exhibit is set to run through October and aims to celebrate the exquisite forms of Black dandyism. However, for Wood and fellow dandies, embracing this style is an everyday practice that reflects their love and commitment to fashion. Wood remarked on the significance of the Met's recognition, stating that while it is a marvelous acknowledgment, the Black community has been cultivating and expressing this style long before the exhibit.
