10.05.2025

"Indigenous Designers Shine at Santa Fe Fashion Week"

SANTA FE, N

SANTA FE, N.M. (AP) - Fashion designers from various regions of North America are showcasing their Indigenous heritage and cultural influences through a three-day runway extravaganza starting on Friday in Santa Fe, a vital creative hub recognized for Indigenous art. This year, the event is collaborating with a counterpart from Vancouver, Canada, reflecting a unity in Indigenous artistry and an emphasis on creative freedom. Alongside, an independent runway show in a rail yard district has significantly increased the excitement and activity surrounding the event.

The series of runway shows, accompanied by music, is set to feature a diverse range of models, including professionals, family members, dancers, and notable Indigenous figures from television and politics. The clothing and accessories displayed will utilize a mix of materials, from silk to animal hides, and will prominently feature traditional beadwork, ribbons, and jewelry, infused with contemporary styles that incorporate digitally rendered designs and urban Native American streetwear, particularly from Phoenix.

Patricia Michaels, a Taos Pueblo fashion designer who gained fame from “Project Runway,” emphasizes that Indigenous fashion narrates personal and communal stories. “You’re getting designers from North America that are here to express a lot of what inspires them from their own heritage and culture," she stated, highlighting the significance of personal and cultural expression in Indigenous design.

This stand-alone spring fashion week is a novel addition to the long-standing Santa Fe Indian Market, which traditionally features busy crowds enjoying outdoor exhibitions by various artists, including sculptors, potters, jewelers, and painters. Designer Sage Mountainflower recalls her childhood experiences at the Indian Market in the 1980s, where her artist parents sold their work. Although she initially pursued a career in environmental administration, she later ventured into high fashion, creating tribal regalia and eventually achieving international recognition.

At the age of 50, Mountainflower is set to debut her “Taandi” collection, named after the Tewa word for “Spring,” which incorporates satin and chiffon fabrics adorned with embroidery patterns reflecting her personal and familial heritage in the Ohkay Owingeh Pueblo, located in the Upper Rio Grande Valley. “This year it’s actually just looking at springtime and how it’s evolving. It’s going to be a colorful collection,” she mentioned about her upcoming presentation.

More than 20 designers are participating at the invitation of the Southwestern Association for Indian Arts, showcasing the integral role of fashion in Santa Fe’s esteemed arts community. Each day, Native American vendors sell jewelry in the central plaza, and the Institute for American Indian Arts offers fashion-related college degrees, further intertwining fashion with cultural education.

A gala event at the New Mexico governor’s mansion has welcomed designers to the area and involved social events at local galleries and bookstores, with plans for pop-up fashion shops featuring clothes fresh from the runway.

This year, the collaboration with Vancouver Indigenous Fashion Week brings a unique First Nations influence to the event, with many designers traveling from Canada. Randi Nelson, a Secwépemc artist and fashion designer, journeyed from Whitehorse in the Canadian Yukon to display collections made from fur and traditionally cured hides, primarily using elk and caribou, which she hand-tans using inherited techniques.

Jeremy Donavan Arviso, a jeweler and designer based in Phoenix, expressed his aim to transcend the strictly Southwest fashion narrative, aspiring to establish a global platform for Native design and collaboration. His runway presentations aim to encapsulate urban Indian couture, showcasing a contemporary aesthetic that diverges from traditional ceremonial practices and draws from his experiences growing up in the streets of Phoenix.

Arviso's approach likens music sampling in early rap, merging elements from major fashion brands with themes from his tribal backgrounds. His collection, titled “Vision Quest,” features a performance by Toronto-based ballet dancer Madison Noon, which he describes as “beautiful and biting.”

The runway models at the Santa Fe shows include prominent figures such as Deb Haaland, former U.S. Interior Secretary from Laguna Pueblo, who will wear designs by Patricia Michaels and jewelry made by Zuni Pueblo silversmith Veronica Poblano.