MILAN (AP) – Uma Thurman’s nonchalant front-row appearance at Maria Grazia Chiuri's debut as Fendi's creative director during Milan Fashion Week on Wednesday offered an intriguing glimpse of a cold-weather collection. The lineup notably transitioned from solid daywear to seductive evening ensembles, prominently featuring fur-centric outerwear.
The front row was abuzz with stars, including Uma Thurman, who donned a classic white blouse tucked beneath a dark blazer, alongside Jessica Alba, who sported a tailored double-breasted pantsuit. Their outfits seamlessly echoed the runway's aesthetic.
Among the attendees were Dakota Fanning and Monica Bellucci, accompanied by a multitude of K-pop stars, including Fendi ambassador Bang Chan. Outside the venue, hundreds of K-pop enthusiasts congregated with homemade signs and drawings of their favorite idols, standing in proximity to a group of anti-fur protesters.
Established a century ago in Rome as a luxury fur and leather goods producer, Fendi's runway showcased a robust heritage of fur pieces, ranging from bombers to patchwork coats. The collection included wispy fur collars that complemented silken dresses and sheer, beaded eveningwear. Additionally, fur-lined hoods adorned parkas, while plush collars enhanced trench coats.
The presentation commenced with dark blazers and overcoats, layered masterfully over trousers, casual dresses, and delicate lace. A fresh take on lace appeared in laser-cut leather dresses, accentuated by starched white collars and intricate bangles.
In a brief interlude, bohemian florals graced the collection, alongside a sheer Art Deco–inspired dress. Throughout, a dose of denim and animal prints punctuated the predominantly black and navy palette, adding variety and depth.
Chiuri’s appointment was one of the most awaited debuts at this Milan Fashion Week, which primarily showcased womenswear collections. She began her journey at Fendi as a handbag designer before serving as co-creative director at Valentino and later as the creative director at Dior.
The recent reshuffling of creative directors in European fashion has largely favored male figures, with Chiuri standing out as one of the few women taking prominent roles in major fashion houses. Other notable female creative leads include Louise Trotter, preparing to unveil her second collection at Bottega Veneta, and Meryll Rogge, who will present her debut at Marni during the week.
Silvia Venturini Fendi, who stepped down as creative director of the fashion house last fall, took a front-row seat during Wednesday's collection. “It’s very moving,” she remarked, reflecting on her experience of watching a Fendi runway show for the first time in her career, after years of being involved backstage.
