MILAN (AP) - During Milan Fashion Week, renowned designers Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons presented their latest collection, reimagining jeans-inspired basics through a blend of leather and technical fabrics. The duo expressed their intention to create menswear looks that are accessible to everyday individuals rather than just fashion insiders.
The new Prada uniform for the upcoming spring and summer showcases slim, cropped jackets and five-pocket trousers, artfully combined with timeless blazers or leather blousons. This collection reflects a return to basics, with a strong emphasis on versatile styling aimed at the general public.
Simons alluded to the simplicity and satisfaction of Italian cuisine, stating, “Sometimes you just realize you need a good pasta pomodoro,” ahead of the show. This culinary reference echoes the effortless charm and authenticity their collection seeks to embody.
Interestingly, while this collection draws inspiration from jeans, Prada revealed that she has never worn a pair, and Simons only recently incorporated jeans back into his wardrobe after two decades of favoring wool trousers. This background adds a layer of irony to the collection, where five-pocket trousers paired with flat-pocket jackets emerge as the modern Prada uniform—both distinctively slim and cropped.
Many outfits featured luxurious, buttery leather in a palette of monochromes including antique white, gray, burgundy, and turquoise, all showcased to an energetic backdrop of rock guitar riffs. A lighter subset appeared in nearly transparent white technical fabric, apt for the recent heatwave that swept across Europe. Notably, only a limited number of looks were actually fashioned from traditional denim.
The collection also portrayed a variety of cropped shirts and knitwear vests boasting geometric patterns, each look accented with clashing silk scarves tied around the midriff. Accessories remained minimal, featuring only colorful pouches worn at the waist and secured to thick belts. The striking pointy shoes completed the aesthetic with multiple Velcro straps.
In regard to design philosophy, Prada emphasized the need for a collection that offers universal appeal, striving to avoid what she called “useless design,” a critique of many current offerings on other runways. Simons reiterated the goal of reconnecting fashion with actual street style, highlighting that some of the most impactful ideas in fashion have historically emerged from the streets rather than being orchestrated by luxury fashion houses.
Described by Simons as a "clear silhouette" marked by vertical lines and a simple yet proud demeanor, the collection is characterized by an abundance of whites that invoke feelings of peace and optimism. Simons believes that this collection challenges conventional notions of typical luxury in high fashion.
In a display of minimalism, the collection was presented in a stripped-down showroom with transparent bench seating, allowing everyone to have a front-row view. The VIP section attracted numerous celebrities, including NBA star Anthony Edwards, Australian singer and actor Troye Sivan, K-pop boy group ENHYPEN, and British actor Louis Partridge, who drew enthusiastic crowds of fans eager to catch a glimpse.
The event took place amidst the sweltering summer heat of Milan, yet the excitement and energy of the fans highlighted the ongoing allure of high fashion and its intersection with popular culture. Prada and Simons’ collection undoubtedly marks a pivotal moment in menswear, embracing everyday wear while maintaining a luxurious touch.
