KYAUKME, Myanmar (AP) — Ten days after it was recaptured by Myanmar's military government, the town of Kyaukme is eerily silent. Schools have reopened, but the market that once bustled with activity is largely empty. Vendors were observed closing their stalls at the sight of visiting journalists, indicating a palpable nervousness in the atmosphere.
The town, located in Myanmar's Shan State, is in a state of disrepair, as confirmed by an Associated Press journalist during a rare visit approved by the military government. The military, which suppresses free press and restricts independent reporting in conflict zones, allowed an AP photographer to join a trip supervised by pro-military media, marking one of the few instances where foreign media had access to the war-torn area.
During the visit, the journalist observed the remnants of destruction: charred ruins of official buildings such as the courthouse, police station, and government housing. The town's hospital has relocated its operations to a nearby Chinese temple due to extensive damage, and at least one fire engine is also burnt out. Despite the destruction surrounding official buildings, civilian homes appear mostly unscathed, though many of the original 46,000 residents have fled due to the ongoing conflict.
The ethnic militia that previously controlled Kyaukme, the Ta'ang National Liberation Army (TNLA), accuses the military of inflicting damage through air strikes and heavy weaponry. Conversely, government soldiers claim that the militia destroyed infrastructure while retreating. The strategic location of Kyaukme, situated on a highway connecting central Myanmar to China, has made it a hotspot for conflict and control, particularly since the military ousted the elected government of Aung San Suu Kyi in 2021, triggering a civil war.
Kyaukme was captured by the TNLA in August 2024, during a significant wave of victories against military rule that left them in control of much of the country's territory. However, the military regained control on October 1, 2025, after a three-week battle, marking a crucial victory for government forces. Following a series of offensives, the military is aiming to bolster its position ahead of elections planned for the end of the year, which critics claim will be neither free nor fair.
Before retaking Kyaukme, the military had also recaptured Nawnghkio, deemed a key gateway to Myanmar's heartland. The road between Nawnghkio and Kyaukme, which stretches 55 kilometers (33 miles), is lined with buildings damaged by conflict. Militants from the current government have established checkpoints every 500 to 1,000 meters along this route, with soldiers manning these positions, including newly conscripted troops.
The authorities have restricted journalists' access to certain residential areas, citing safety concerns due to unexploded ordnance. Capt. Wai Yan Kyaw confirmed that land mines remain in various neighborhoods. Unexploded munitions, including a mortar shell, were visible in several locations, including a Buddhist monastery compound.
Local residents who spoke with journalists noted that only a small fraction of the population has returned since Kyaukme's recapture. Many fled last year during the fighting, and those who remained often did so due to financial constraints. One anonymous local expressed disbelief that many would return while the town remains near ongoing military offensives, with TNLA forces reportedly stationed in the nearby hills.
A motorbike taxi driver in his mid-thirties echoed this sentiment, asserting that the town's streets now feel deserted. He believes people will not feel safe returning until the military gains control over more surrounding areas, stating, "People are unwilling to live near the front line." The situation in Kyaukme reflects the broader struggles enveloping Myanmar in its current civil war.
