NINOSHIMA, Japan (AP) — Baumkuchen, a layered cake that originated in Germany, has evolved into a beloved confection in Japan. The story of this unique dessert is tied to a prisoner of war who began making it on Ninoshima, a small island near Hiroshima, where it found a warm reception and has thrived ever since.
Known as "tree cake" due to its resemblance to a tree trunk with rings, Baumkuchen is celebrated in Japan as a symbol of longevity and prosperity. This admiration has led to the establishment of Baumkuchen festivals across the country. In Japan, adaptations of the cake, such as those featuring maccha (green tea) and sweet potatoes, have become popular gifts for occasions like weddings and birthdays. Baumkuchen can be found in luxury department stores, sold in elegant gift boxes, or as smaller, individually wrapped versions in convenience stores.
The history of this sweet treat, however, is linked to significant events, including a catastrophic earthquake and two world wars. Making Baumkuchen has become a favored pastime on Ninoshima, which is only a 20-minute ferry ride from Hiroshima. Visitors to the island are encouraged to understand its complex wartime history, as highlighted by Kazuaki Otani, the head of the Juccheim Ninoshima Welcome Center.
At the outdoor center built on the grounds of a former prisoner of war camp, amateur bakers replicate the original method used by Karl Juchheim, the German confectioner who introduced Baumkuchen to Japan over a century ago. They pour batter onto a bamboo pole and roast it over charcoal, allowing each layer to cook to a light brown before adding another layer, creating distinct rings as the cake grows and filling the air with a sweet aroma.
During Japan's militarist expansion in the late 1890s, Ninoshima served as a quarantine station. Approximately 4,700 German civilians and servicemen were held in 16 camps across Japan during World War I. The prisoners at Ninoshima enjoyed a certain degree of freedom, which allowed them to cook. Juchheim, who ran a bakery in Qingdao, China, prior to his capture in 1915, was among the 500 German POWs sent to Ninoshima in 1917, where he is believed to have developed the Baumkuchen recipe.
Following the end of the war in 1918, Juchheim remained in Japan with around 200 fellow POWs. His Baumkuchen made its commercial debut in Japan at the Hiroshima Prefectural Products Exhibition in March 1919, attracting a substantial number of Japanese visitors who were captivated by the confection. In 1922, Juchheim opened a pastry shop in Yokohama, near Tokyo. However, the 1923 Great Kanto Earthquake destroyed his business, prompting him to relocate to Kobe, where he established a coffee shop specializing in Baumkuchen.
Sadly, that shop was also destroyed by U.S. firebombings in Kobe just months before the conclusion of World War II. Despite the setbacks, Juchheim persevered and expanded his confectionery business in Kobe. Today, Juchheim Co., Ltd. continues to operate as one of Japan's leading confectioners, supported by his wife Elise and a dedicated team of Japanese employees.
The atomic bombing of Hiroshima on August 6, 1945, followed by another bomb dropped on Nagasaki three days later, resulted in the deaths of over 210,000 individuals by the end of that year. In the aftermath of these events, around 10,000 severely injured victims were sent from Hiroshima to Ninoshima for medical treatment and temporary refuge. Tragically, many succumbed to their injuries, and the remains of several have yet to be discovered.
Juchheim passed away from illness on August 14, 1945, in a hotel in Kobe, one day prior to Japan's official announcement of its surrender. Kazuaki Otani reflects on Juchheim's baking legacy, mentioning that it embodied his desire for peace. He hopes that by sharing this history with visitors, opportunities arise for reflection on peace, reminding us of the significance behind this cherished cake.
