LONDON (AP) — A Palestinian beer has made its way to British store shelves this week from the Israeli-occupied West Bank, overcoming significant border checks and a tumultuous backdrop of conflict in the region. This journey of the beer is emblematic of an unexpected partnership between brewers from disparate backgrounds.
Madees Khoury, brewmaster at Taybeh Brewing Co. and the daughter of one of its founders, reflects on the challenges faced by the brewery. “My grandfather used to say, if you can make it succeed and happen in Palestine, you can succeed anywhere else in the world,” she stated, acknowledging the trials that have only strengthened their resolve.
Taybeh Brewing Co. faces a unique challenge in producing and selling a microbrew in a predominantly Muslim population that generally abstains from alcohol for religious reasons. The impacts of decades of conflict, water shortages, and incursions by Israeli settlers add to the difficulties, making it a remarkable achievement that beer continues to be produced in the Christian village of Taybeh.
The current war, ignited by Hamas militants' attack in southern Israel on October 7, 2023, has exacerbated the economic conditions. The violence has led to over 64,000 Palestinian deaths in the Gaza Strip and a marked decline in business for Taybeh Brewing. With bars, restaurants, and hotels closing and unemployment rising, the market for what is considered a luxury product has dwindled.
Despite the war, the situation has opened pathways for collaboration. Brewgooder, a Scottish brewery known for its commitment to social causes, reached out to Taybeh Brewing after learning of its struggles. Co-founder James Hughes expressed amazement at the adversity faced by Taybeh, which prompted him to propose a collaboration for a new beer that could circumvent certain logistical challenges and assist in raising funds for charity.
Taybeh Brewing, established 34 years ago by Nadim Khoury and his brother David, claims the title of the oldest microbrewery in the Middle East. Nadim Khoury humorously comments that the numerous barriers they encounter add character to their beer. He lists various challenges, from limitations imposed by culture and occupation to practical issues like sieges and infrastructure shortages.
Since the outbreak of war, the Israeli military’s operations have tightened control over the West Bank’s economy, aggravating the difficulties already faced by Taybeh Brewing. Exporting to the 17 countries, including the U.K., where Taybeh does business has become increasingly convoluted, requiring extensive paperwork and subjecting goods to rigorous security checks at Israeli border crossings.
Madees Khoury recounts the logistical nightmares they endure, detailing how delays can stem from malfunctioning scanning machines or overzealous security inspections, which can even involve dogs. One incident involved a dog urinating on their beer, highlighting the bizarre challenges they face in maintaining product quality during transit.
A new collaborative product called Sun & Stone has emerged from the partnership with Brewgooder. Brewed with Bavarian hops and British malt, this crisp lager consists of 180,000 cans ready to be distributed throughout the U.K. market. In a commendable move, both Brewgooder and the Co-op, which will distribute the beer, are forgoing any profits from sales. Instead, proceeds will support Taybeh Brewing and local charities aiding those impacted by conflict in the region.
Hughes articulated the brewery's mission, emphasizing the importance of compassion and hope that this collaboration would inspire greater support for Palestinian communities. He acknowledged the simplicity of their endeavor, stating, “At the end of the day, we’ve just brewed a beer,” but also recognized it as part of a larger collective effort to assist those in need amidst ongoing conflict.
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Brian Melley, The Associated Press
