MONTREAL — Garnet Lee has announced the closure of Wing Noodles, a family-operated business in the heart of Montreal's Chinatown, which has been running for nearly 60 years. Lee's connection to the establishment dates back to when he was just eight years old, packaging wonton covers and playing hide-and-seek among the machines. After decades of operation, he plans to close the doors by the end of November, provoking concerns regarding the future of the historic building housing the company.
Founded by Lee’s great-great-grandfather in 1880, who immigrated to Canada to assist in constructing the Canadian Pacific Railway, the family business transitioned to importing Chinese goods under the name Wing Lung in 1897. Following World War II, disruptions in shipping led the business to shift its focus to noodle production in 1946, a tradition that continues to this day.
Lee is well-acquainted with every aspect of the four-storey building, a former school that has served as the company’s base since 1964. Despite advancements in automation that have reduced staffing needs, the company still employs 20 to 25 individuals, many of whom have been part of the Wing Noodles family for decades. Lee takes pride in the long-standing relationships with his staff, greeting them as old friends during a recent tour through the fragrant facility, where machines are continuously crafting wonton covers, noodles, and fortune cookies.
The decision to close Wing Noodles stems from a combination of factors, including rising operational costs, aging machinery, and an upcoming surgery for his brother, who also helps run the company. Lee and his brother traditionally work extensive hours, often exceeding 80 to 100 hours per week, and assist with all aspects of the business, down to floor cleaning if necessary. Additionally, the location presents challenges such as high taxes, limited parking, and frequent road closures due to events at the adjacent convention center.
Lee recalls discussing with a city councillor a few years ago that he believed Wing Noodles was among the last manufacturing businesses remaining in Montreal’s downtown core. The closure has raised concerns among community groups devoted to preserving the area, which has faced development pressures threatening its unique cultural character.
In 2021, the Lee family sold the building to a developer, prompting local advocacy for its preservation. These efforts culminated in the building being designated a provincial heritage site in 2023 and a municipal heritage site in 2024. Jessica Chen, the executive director of the JIA Foundation, an organization focusing on protecting Chinatown’s cultural identity, highlighted the significance of Wing Noodles to the local Chinese community. The company not only supplied numerous restaurants but also supported community events and initiatives, providing employment to several generations.
As the news of the closure spread, it evoked strong emotional responses from both longtime customers and employees. Many expressed their fondness for the establishment, and one customer even became teary-eyed upon hearing of its impending closure. Lee has been deeply touched by the emotional reaction, noting how many long-time employees plan to retire once the company shuts down, having built life milestones together over the years.
Currently, the building is listed for approximately $5 million and is described in a real estate advertisement as a property with potential for residential conversion into 43 units. Chen’s group is organizing a banquet and fundraiser on December 5 to celebrate Wing Noodles’ contributions to the Chinatown economy while also devising a strategy for the building’s future. Chen hopes that partners will emerge to help develop the space into a community project that preserves its legacy.
As Wing Noodles nears its closure, Lee reflects on the decades of fulfillment that the business has brought him and the community. The emotional connection and sense of history surrounding the establishment have solidified its role as a vital part of Montreal’s Chinatown.
