NEW YORK (AP) - Chanel's new creative director, Matthieu Blazy, has made a striking debut with a unique runway show held on a subway platform in New York. This event took place on Tuesday, marking the first time Chanel has showcased in the city since 2018.
Blazy's collection, titled the M métiers d'art collection, celebrated craftsmanship by bringing together artisans that collaborate with Chanel. The show was hosted at a decommissioned part of the Bowery subway station, with guests entering through a discreet doorway at 168 Bowery. At first glance, it appeared that Chanel had transformed the venue into a subway-themed space, complete with tiled walls and turnstiles. However, upon descending a flight of stairs, attendees were greeted by the authentic subway platform.
Guests took their seats on bleachers reminiscent of subway benches, as the familiar New York subway announcement, "Stand clear of the closing doors!" echoed in the background. The models then emerged from an arriving train, which added to the immersive experience Blazy aimed to create.
This presentation was a sharp contrast to the last M métiers d'art collection in New York, where the late Karl Lagerfeld had taken over the Egyptian Temple of Dendur at the Metropolitan Museum of Art. While Lagerfeld’s show channeled the opulence of ancient Egypt, Blazy drew inspiration from everyday urban commuters, focusing on a diverse mashup of styles spanning from the 1920s to the present.
In his show notes, Blazy emphasized that "the New York subway belongs to all." He described it as a gathering place for various individuals—from students to influential figures—encapsulating the diverse tapestry of the city. The collection included outfits that embodied the functionality and aesthetics of everyday subway commuters, featuring classic Chanel suits paired with "I (Heart) NY" T-shirts, tweed coats, flowing black capes, and vibrant patterned skirts, highlighting the craftsmanship involved.
Some notable VIPs attending the show included A$AP Rocky, Tilda Swinton, Ayo Edebiri, Rose Byrne, Kristen Stewart, Sofia Coppola, Lupita Nyong'o, Jessie Buckley, Margaret Qualley, Bowen Yang, and Jon Bon Jovi. Many of these guests were unaware of the show's theme beforehand until they experienced the performance, which Stewart described as an emotional journey. The ambiance and setting made her feel as though she was witnessing "different versions of a person walking." She expressed a desire to know where the models were headed, stating that the portrayal of the subway felt authentic despite its theatrical presentation.
Chanel even produced a custom newspaper titled La Gazette, distributed at the event, which featured articles and interviews, including insights from Blazy about the collection being inspired by Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel's visit to New York in 1931. Blazy praised the subway as "the vortex of the city" and highlighted its role in connecting people from all walks of life.
As the show progressed, the models strolled along the platform, mimicking the everyday acts of waiting for a train and engaging with the environment. The finale featured a lively soundtrack that included the "Happy Days" theme song, symbolizing a rush hour of fashion.
In summary, Blazy’s inaugural show for Chanel was not only a display of fashion but also a tribute to the urban experience, encapsulating the spirit of New York City through innovative design and immersive storytelling.
