LONDON (AP) The late Queen Elizabeth II was known for her belief that for a monarch, visibility was crucial. She exemplified this by pioneering the use of clear plastic raincoats to maintain her visibility during public appearances, even in inclement weather, opting for them over traditional black umbrellas.
This clear raincoat is one of approximately 300 garments and artifacts featured in a new exhibition titled “Queen Elizabeth II: Her Life in Style,” which opens on Friday at the King’s Gallery, Buckingham Palace. This exhibit marks the centenary of the late queen’s birth and serves as the most comprehensive showcase of her fashion choices throughout her life and rule as Britain's longest-serving monarch.
Exhibition curator Caroline de Guitaut emphasized the queen’s definitive sense of style, stating, “She absolutely knew how she wanted to appear.” This exhibit explores Elizabeth's evolution from a young princess to an iconic fashion figure, highlighting significant outfits that represent various milestones in her life. Many items are instantly recognizable due to Elizabeth's status as one of the most photographed individuals in history, although it feels peculiar to see her iconic ball gowns and tweed suits displayed on mannequins rather than worn by the queen herself.
Among the one-of-a-kind artifacts is a dress worn by Elizabeth's stunt double during the 2012 London Olympics' opening ceremony. In this famous moment, the then 86-year-old queen appeared to parachute into the stadium beside Daniel Craig, dressed as James Bond. Both gowns from this event, designed by Elizabeth's longtime dressmaker Angela Kelly, are presented alongside each other in the display, with the stunt double's gown featuring a practical zipper for parachute use.
The exhibition draws from a collection of over 4,000 items previously owned by the queen, showcasing how her fashion served as a potent communication tool. For instance, during her state banquet in Pakistan in 1961, she wore a green and white gown designed by Norman Hartnell, symbolizing a gesture of respect toward her hosts by donning their national colors. De Guitaut noted the queen's keen understanding of how fashion could facilitate diplomacy, frequently using color and embellishment to convey respect to the nations she visited before even delivering a speech.
As she aged, Elizabeth often chose bright, distinctive colors for public appearances so that she could be easily spotted, allowing onlookers to claim they saw the queen. The exhibit also features her off-duty wardrobe, including tweed suits appropriate for Balmoral Castle, the royal family's summer retreat in Scotland, alongside clothing meant for outdoor activities such as riding and hiking. Items from designers like Burberry and Hardy Amies are displayed, illustrating the variety of her fashion choices.
Displaying clothing worn for significant life events, the exhibit includes her christening robe, which was commissioned by Queen Victoria, a gown she wore for her wedding, and attire from her coronation. Additional displays include sketches and notes that illustrate the queen's active involvement in the design process for her garments.
Naomi Pike, a commissioning editor for Elle UK, remarked that this exhibition finally acknowledges Elizabeth’s status as a fashion icon, despite the spotlight also being shared by other royals like her sister, the late Princess Margaret, and her daughter-in-law, the late Princess Diana. Pike commented, “In the case of the queen, she was an icon, and so much of that comes down to having a very strong sense of personal style.”
In addition to signature gowns, the exhibition surprises visitors with a rather worn fairy outfit, adorned with wings, bought for Elizabeth as a child. Cecilia Oliver, a textile conservator at the King’s Gallery, shared her affection for this childhood piece, recalling the sentimentality it evokes when considering Elizabeth’s transformation from a young girl into a queen with significant responsibilities. Oliver reflected on the intimacy of being able to handle such personal artifacts belonging to someone widely recognized yet intimately known by so few.
The exhibit “Queen Elizabeth II: Her Life in Style” will run until October 18 at the King’s Gallery in Buckingham Palace, celebrating the life, style, and enduring impact of one of Britain’s most notable monarchs.
