TOKYO (AP) Naoko Watanabe, a 44-year-old Japanese climber, has achieved remarkable feats in the world of mountaineering, becoming the first woman to summit the world’s second-highest peak, K2, three times. Additionally, she has successfully scaled all 14 of the world’s tallest mountains, each of which exceeds 8,000 meters (26,246 feet) in height. However, Watanabe emphasizes that her climbing journey is not solely about breaking records; it is more about the experiences, adventures, and the joy of discovering new cultures and meeting new people.
This June, Watanabe plans to return to Nanga Parbat in Pakistan, known as the "killer mountain." This mountain holds a special place in her heart, and she intends to embark on this trek with a group of amateur climbers, most of whom will only venture to the base camp. She believes that climbing should be about enjoyment rather than solely reaching the summit. "The Nanga Parbat base camp is extremely scenic and my favorite among the 14 peaks," Watanabe expressed, underscoring her desire for participants to appreciate the beauty surrounding them.
Beginning her climbing career at the age of three, Watanabe was encouraged by her mother to join an adventure club. This introduction to climbing allowed her to explore various landscapes, including a snowy mountain in Pakistan at just 12 years old. These adventurous experiences helped her cope with the pressures of Japanese society, which often emphasize conformity over individuality.
After completing her nursing degree, Watanabe climbed the 8,201-meter (26,906-foot) summit of Cho Oyu in Nepal in 2006 while she was still a student nurse. Her dedication to climbing required her to switch to temporary nursing jobs to create a better balance between work and her passion for mountaineering. Over the years, she has participated in over 31 expeditions and attributes some of her success to her medical training, which has proven invaluable during emergency situations on the mountains.
Watanabe’s nursing background allowed her to make sound decisions during challenging climbs, such as her near-success in 2011 at Everest. Just 150 meters from the summit, she made the difficult choice to turn back when the weather worsened, even though her Sherpa guide protested. This decision highlighted her ability to assess risks, as she later suffered from pneumonia after their safe descent.
Despite setbacks, Watanabe returned to Everest in 2013 and successfully reached the summit amidst windy conditions, showcasing her resilience. Her most significant accomplishments came in 2024 when she became the first Japanese woman to scale all 14 of the world’s highest peaks, climaxing with her ascent of Mount Shishapangma in October. That same year, she also set a Guinness World Record by summiting K2 three times, reflecting her dedication and remarkable talent in climbing.
With an eye towards the future, Watanabe envisions continuing her climbing journey, expressing her intent to climb in the Himalayas approximately 100 times, treating each climb as an adventure rather than a race to the top. "It would be fun if that eventually becomes a record that I set in my own unique way," she stated, reaffirming her passion for mountaineering and the experiences it brings.
