ROME (AP) — As the Vatican prepares for a conclave set to begin next Wednesday, a notable absence looms: the traditional orders for new papal cassocks from its renowned tailors. For the first time in 46 and a half years, the Vatican hasn't placed a pre-conclave order with Gammarelli or Mancinelli, the two best-known ecclesiastical tailors. This situation has led to a unique scenario for the upcoming papal succession.
Ranieri Mancinelli, who established his tailoring shop near the Vatican in the 1960s, has taken it upon himself to create three basic white cassocks in small, medium, and large sizes. Mancinelli said, “I’m doing this on my own to be able to present these cassocks for the next pope, without knowing who he will be.” In contrast, Gammarelli has a long-standing history of fulfilling cassock orders for every conclave since the early 20th century, boasting a legacy of crafting garments for clergy since 1798. Lorenzo Gammarelli, representing the sixth generation of the family business, noted that the last time his shop did not receive a pre-conclave order was in October 1978 for the election of Pope John Paul I, who served only 33 days.
The absence of an order this year raises questions around the Vatican's decision, with speculation suggesting they may possess enough unworn cassocks and are adhering to Pope Francis’ message of environmental and economic sustainability. Gammarelli expressed some disappointment, stating, “Obviously, we’re a little sorry, because in the sadness caused by the death of the Holy Father, we still would have the beautiful thing of having to make the trousseau for the new one. Not this time.”
The papal trousseau has historically included specific garments for the pope's first appearance before the public. This includes a hand-stitched white wool cassock, typically accompanied by a white cape and wide silk sleeves. The cassock, secured with silk buttons, is worn with a silk brocade sash adorned with gold fringe. Traditionally, this sash is embroidered with the papal seal, although Pope Francis opted for a simpler aesthetic, preferring practicality over embellishment.
The standard papal ensemble also features a white zucchetto, or skullcap, a common accessory for bishops and cardinals, who wear red and purple variations, respectively. Gammarelli additionally prepares shoes in various sizes to ensure comfort for the new pope when he addresses the public. However, the specifics regarding pricing remain confidential, in keeping with the conclave's secretive nature.
The task of fitting the next pope involves careful consideration and data from Gammarelli’s relationships with cardinals. The tailor shared that they make educated guesses on possible candidates and create several cassocks in anticipation. Gammarelli remarked, “We consider who, in our opinion, could be elected,” indicating their thoughtful approach to crafting the garments.
Past experiences highlight the unpredictability of papal elections. For instance, the tailor never anticipated Cardinal Karol Wojtyla would ascend to the papacy in 1978, nor did they foresee Jorge Mario Bergoglio emerging as a contender in 2013, despite having considered him in 2005. An anecdote recalls the 1958 scenario when Pope John XXIII appeared wearing safety pins due to receiving a misfit cassock, leading aides to adjust it swiftly.
Mancinelli’s shop, located just steps from the Vatican, has served the last three popes: St. John Paul II, Pope Benedict XVI, and Pope Francis. Mancinelli expressed that he formed a bond with Benedict while he was still a cardinal and had a pleasant rapport with Francis during his papacy. The simplicity of Francis’ style greatly influenced how Mancinelli crafts the cassocks he will present, reflecting Francis’s preference for unadorned and practical clothing.
As the preparations continue and the world waits in anticipation, the question remains whether the new pope will follow in Francis’s footsteps of simplicity or revive traditional elements, such as the ornate red garments of yesteryear. The unveiling of this decision will remain a topic of great interest until the classic declaration, “Habemus Papam!” resonates from the balcony of St. Peter’s Basilica.
