PARIS (AP) - At the Paris Fashion Week Chloé show on Thursday, Oprah Winfrey graced the front row alongside her longtime friend Gayle King. The event attracted an array of VIP guests who mingled before the show commenced, heralding it as a celebrity-filled spectacle that could overshadow the fashion on display.
Designer Chemena Kamali aimed to ensure that the clothing took center stage, as she laid out a collection that celebrated "irregularities" and emphasized "human care" over machine perfection. In her lengthy designer note, Kamali articulated a desire for fashion to embody "humanity, empathy, and devotion," which resonates deeply in a world increasingly characterized by mechanization and rapid acceleration.
The collection showcased on the runway embodied the essence of "folk," which Kamali reiterated as a theme throughout the event. This concept drew attention to craft, community, and ritual, steering clear of museum-like costumes. The opening look featured a trapeze skirt paired with a long tailored jacket that had graphic shoulders and a folk blouse embellished with delicate floral embroidery. This combination maintained Chloé's signature bohemian style while introducing a structured elegance: the romantic designs were anchored by a strong backbone.
Kamali's most compelling work emerged from the interplay of conflicting styles—melding softness with strength and prairie sweetness with urban armor. The runway showcased a variety of long, flowing dresses, capes that enveloped the body in comfort, and meticulously cut pieces that promised a sense of intimacy without leaning towards fragility. In a deliberate contrast, hard-edged details were present, including leather trousers and oversized buckles, delivering a Western flair that felt assertive rather than decorative.
The front row featured a dazzling array of celebrities such as Olivia Rodrigo, Brooke Shields, Neneh Cherry, and Paris Jackson, among others, with Winfrey capturing the most attention from photographers. However, the collection did not rely solely on celebrity allure. Kamali's focus extended beyond a mere moment, emphasizing that luxury remains rooted in the human craftsmanship embedded in each garment, which is painstakingly created stitch by stitch.
Notably, one of the standout accessories of the season was impossible to overlook: fur-lined leather thigh-high boots that stomped down the runway with a maximalist and confrontational flair, designed equally for streets and photographs. These boots infused the collection with energy, suggesting that while the Chloé woman may be dreamy, she still seeks assertiveness in style.
Despite the presence of bold accessories, the emotional core of the collection resided in the quality of the fabrics and finishes—the elements through which a brand can demonstrate its authenticity. This essence was best exemplified in pieces that appeared lived-in rather than artificially styled. Airy blouses and tops emanated a sense of warmth, with minimalistic embroideries conveying intimacy, and pastoral prints avoiding any hint of being overly sweet.
Chloé has historically grasped the transformative power of a blouse—the simplicity of one perfect top can redefine a wardrobe. Kamali’s folk blouses, rich in stitched floral designs and relaxed silhouettes, pushed this tradition forward with enough contemporary relevance to resonate with modern audiences, even when drawing inspiration from the past.
