MILAN (AP) - The Italian luxury brand Ferragamo has announced its ability to map the country of origin for a significant portion of the leather used in its renowned footwear and handbags. This marks an initial step towards achieving traceability in the production process, a critical aspect highlighted by industry experts. The announcement was made against the backdrop of tightening EU sustainability regulations that increasingly pressure fashion brands to clarify the materials within their supply chains.
Ferragamo, a family-operated and publicly traded fashion house, has been publishing sustainability reports for more than ten years. However, its report released on March 31, 2025, is the first to feature specific figures related to material traceability, especially concerning leather. Experts emphasize that leather is more challenging to trace than fabric materials like cotton. James Ferragamo, the brand’s Chief Transformation and Sustainability Officer and grandson of founder Salvatore Ferragamo, expressed optimism in a recent interview, stating, “We have been using leather in a more sustainable way. I think it is one of the more sustainable materials in my point of view.”
According to James Ferragamo, most of the tanneries that partner with the brand have sustainable practices, including water management, fair labor conditions, and responsible sourcing that avoids deforestation and promotes animal welfare. This commitment to traceability comes as a necessary measure for the fashion industry. The new EU framework mandates that brands and their suppliers ensure that their products are sustainable from design to end-of-life disposal, though details and timelines for compliance are still being developed.
Francesca Rinaldi, a sustainability expert at Bocconi University in Milan, noted, “Traceability is an essential factor, but it’s not sufficient... It enables the implementation of sustainability and circularity.” She pointed out that companies not tracing their materials do not fully understand their supply chains, potentially exposing them to accusations of greenwashing.
The EU is implementing more stringent regulations, including measures to prevent the destruction of unsold clothing, accessories, and footwear by companies with over 250 employees and annual revenues exceeding 40 million euros ($46.8 million). Ferragamo’s traceability initiative began with the calf leather used in the iconic Fiamma bag, tracking its source from breeding to assembly, as stated in the company’s 2024 annual report.
In 2025, the brand collaborated with strategic tanneries that represent 80% of its leather suppliers to achieve comprehensive country-of-origin identification for raw materials via supplier declarations. Incorporating textiles like cotton, silk, and nylon, Ferragamo asserts that 81% of its materials are certified by third-party sustainability standards.
Davide Triacca, Ferragamo’s sustainability director, explained that while the EU does not yet mandate leather traceability, their diligent approach has resulted in tracing over 80% of the leather sourced by the company, primarily from Europe. However, experts caution that relying solely on country mapping and supplier declarations falls short of establishing a complete supply chain and indicates an early stage of traceability.
Ferragamo’s sustainability initiatives have a historical context—the family-run fashion house was established in 1927 by Salvatore Ferragamo in Florence, after his experiences in Hollywood as a celebrated shoemaker. Constraints during World War II led Ferragamo to explore alternative materials, such as substituting wicker for leather and cork for shoe soles. Currently, Ferragamo remains a leading producer of footwear and leather goods, which accounted for 86% of its 2025 sales totaling 976.5 million euros ($1.1 billion).
The company has also ventured into innovative materials, releasing capsule collections featuring silky textiles made from orange fibers in 2017, and the Nova men’s tote crafted from castor oil-based nylon. The Back to Earth collection, which includes the brand’s Hug handbag treated with vegetable dyes, reflects Ferragamo's ongoing commitment to sustainability. “Research keeps on going. It’s something that we’re doing all the time,” Ferragamo stated, reinforcing the brand’s dedication to pioneering sustainable materials, even if they are not yet market-ready.
