MILAN (AP) – Silvana Armani, the niece of the iconic designer Giorgio Armani, confidently presented the first signature collection of the Giorgio Armani fashion house without her uncle's input, marking a significant moment in the brand’s history. This show took place at the conclusion of Milan Fashion Week on Sunday, following the passing of the esteemed fashion designer on September 4 at the age of 91.
Among the notable attendees was actress Andie MacDowell, who, at 67, highlighted the importance of representing women of a certain age in fashion. As she arrived at the show donned in a sleek dark Armani suit adorned with a three-dimensional rose detail, MacDowell expressed her belief that fashion can remain powerful and elegant at any age. "I love this because I was born Rosalie Anderson MacDowell, and I thought this suit was made for me. It makes me feel really elegant," she remarked.
The new collection, which showcases the essence of Giorgio Armani, embodies a fluid and contemporary winter wardrobe for the upcoming fall and winter seasons. It notably omitted jewelry, with the exception of pins representing the zodiac sign for Cancer, which was the late designer's astrological sign. The collection opened with sophisticated urban looks in slate gray, complemented by luxurious silken blouses featuring foulard detailing. Vibrant burgundy belts provided color and shape, while knitwear displayed a refined scoop neck design. Long overcoats elegantly grazed the runway, setting a tone of casual sophistication.
Silvana Armani structured the collection around soft yet tailored jackets, including quilted Japanese-style pieces and colorful shearling coats. These were paired with fluid trousers, some featuring side pleats for added volume. The designs hint at an active lifestyle, with winter white trousers matched with high-neck silk blouses and anoraks, alongside cozy knitwear and practical cross-body bags. The color palette transitioned to burgundy and dark blue, introducing a new definition of elegance with velvet pieces embellished with beaded embroidery and eveningwear that featured iridescent corsets subtly distanced from the body.
Even the more formal looks remained approachable, styled with cross-body satchels, allowing for a modern interpretation of evening attire, as the Giorgio Armani woman is portrayed as vibrant and active rather than waiting passively at home. Silvana Armani, at 70, expressed her personal connection to the collection, stating that it included several pieces she would choose to wear herself. "Working with fluidity and simplicity came naturally to me, because that’s how I am," she noted, echoing her uncle's design philosophy by wearing navy trousers and a sweater at the show's conclusion.
In addition to the main collection, Silvana Armani collaborated with Leo Dell’Orco to present a crisp co-ed collection for Emporio Armani, which previewed earlier in the week. The Armani Theater was transformed with wood flooring reminiscent of a music conservatory, reflecting the collection's inspiration drawn from British formal wear fused with Italian sophistication. Tailcoats and waistcoats evoked a sense of performance, while denim introduced a contemporary edge to the ensemble. The show concluded with a striking display of starched white shirts and impeccable black tie attire, earning warm applause from the audience, which included Olympic medalists from Team Italia donned in EA7 Emporio Armani athleticwear for the upcoming February Games.
