NEW YORK (AP) – After over ten years of working in his family’s Brooklyn pizzeria, Salvatore Lo Duca made a troubling discovery regarding a vital ingredient for their thin-crust pies: bromated flour contains a suspected carcinogen that is already banned in many parts of the world. In response, he began modifying the traditional recipe handed down from his parents, leading to surprisingly positive outcomes.

“When we started experimenting with a different flour, I actually took a liking to it,” said Lo Duca, the 39-year-old who operates Lo Duca Pizza with his five brothers. “It’s a little more expensive, but the quality is there.” A pending ban on potassium bromate, the additive in question, may soon compel numerous pizzerias and bagel shops across New York to undergo similar adjustments to their recipes.

The proposed legislation, passed by state lawmakers and awaiting the signature of Governor Kathy Hochul, has sparked a heated debate among dough-makers. Concerns are growing that even minor modifications to time-honored baking methods could have significant repercussions for New York’s iconic culinary offerings. According to pizza historian Scott Wiener, “This is an earth-shaking event for New York pizza. That ingredient is part of the identity of the slice.”

Wiener estimates that around 80% of pizza and bagel shops depend on a flour that includes bromate, a chemical agent that helps shorten dough rest time and produce a stronger, chewier final product. Many believe that the unique characteristics of New York bagels, including their height, structure, crispiness, and springiness, would not be achievable—or as prevalent—without this added chemical.

Jesse Spellman, the second-generation owner of Utopia Bagels, echoed these sentiments as he too began adapting his family’s recipe ahead of the potential ban, noting that it will take time and experimentation with yeast concentrations and rising times to create a satisfactory product. “It’s going to take some time to get a product that we’re happy with,” he said.

However, there are those who argue that the ban on potassium bromate is long overdue. The additive is already prohibited in the European Union, China, India, Canada, and it will be banned in California starting next year. Some health experts believe that the absence of bromate elsewhere could be one reason baked goods are often more easily tolerated by Americans traveling abroad.

“From a consumer’s point of view, there’s nothing good about potassium bromate,” stated Erik Millstone, a professor of science policy at the University of Sussex, who has focused on the health impacts of chemicals in food. He noted that research dating back to the 1980s showed that bromate can cause cancer in lab animals, even at seemingly safe levels. “Most well-informed people would prioritize a long healthy life over a slightly softer and more soluble bun,” he added.

Interestingly, many of New York’s most renowned pizzerias, especially those that lean towards artisanal approaches, already advertise their use of “unbromated” flour. Despite this trend, traditional neighborhood shops predominantly rely on a bromated flour known as All Trumps, a staple since the city’s first grab-and-go pizza parlors opened nearly a century ago. General Mills has since introduced an unbromated version of this product at a comparable price, although other alternatives can be much more expensive.

According to Wiener, moving away from bromated flour could ultimately lead to an enhancement in the quality of pizza across New York. “Without such a fast turnaround for dough production, you’re going to get more well-fermented doughs, producing lighter pizzas that are easier to eat and result in less stomach discomfort,” he explained. “It will require more of a process, but everything will be built back better.”

If the legislation is enacted, businesses will have a one-year grace period to continue using the additive and additional time to go through any existing stock. A spokesperson for Governor Hochul indicated that she is currently reviewing the proposed bill.

The potential impact of this ban has also resonated beyond the borders of New York. Mario Mangilia, the owner of DoughBoyz in Florida, boasted in an Instagram post about how “pizza in Florida is officially better than pizza in New York.” He humorously noted that “my grandfather would haunt me” if any changes were made to their dough recipe. However, after facing criticism from various pizza enthusiasts regarding health concerns related to bromate, Mangilia reconsidered his stance and agreed to experiment with different flour options.