PARIS (AP) — On Thursday, the fashion house Enfants Riches Déprimés showcased a collection that beautifully played with contradictions, as designer Henri Alexander Levy continues to explore the intersection of military aesthetics and bohemian style. The collection featured a striking military-inspired denim coat adorned with shiny buttons, tailored to reflect the sharpness associated with uniforms, while models displayed ’70s heeled boots and shaggy hairstyles reminiscent of the Woodstock era. This juxtaposition represented a countercultural vibe refracted through the lens of bourgeois tailoring.
The edgy reputation of Enfants Riches Déprimés, which translates to "Depressed Rich Kids," was once again on display. Levy infused a decadent interpretation into the traditionally preppy necktie, reminiscent of Hedi Slimane’s work, by incorporating silver clasps and jeweled belts. White, wide pleated pants, which exuded an almost aristocratic spirit akin to a French country house, took on a rakish flair when paired with black leather and sunglasses, illustrating the image of a rich kid returning to family lunch after a turbulent weekend.
Established in 2012 in Los Angeles, Enfants Riches Déprimés has transcended its cult origins, now firmly rooted in Paris and extending its influence with the opening of an art-book-and-vinyl bar. The brand's loyal celebrity following has bolstered its status, with figures like Jared Leto, Miley Cyrus, Courtney Love, and Rita Ora frequently spotted donning its bold designs.
Juxtaposition serves as the brand's foundational language. Since its inception, Enfants Riches Déprimés has thrived on a posh-punk aesthetic, blending elements such as safety pins and raw hems with luxurious materials like velvet, chiffon, and refined leathercraft. This latest collection continues that tradition, encapsulating an eclectic and bohemian spirit while remaining self-aware, conveying the message, “we’re depressed, but we’ve got money.”
Levy’s staging often walks the fine line between theater and nihilism, previously incorporating dramatic elements such as cardboard tanks and funeral processions along with characters inspired by various artistic works. However, the clothing presented on Thursday leaned less towards shock value and more towards embodying a specific mood — one that evokes the decadent melancholy of youth burdened by both overwhelming privilege and abundant free time.
