BUDAPEST, Hungary — In the heart of Hungary's capital, known for its goulash, an innovative pizzeria is inviting diners to embark on a culinary journey back to ancient Rome, a time when modern pizza as we know it today was nonexistent. Neverland Pizzeria, founded by Josep Zara, has introduced a limited-edition pizza crafted solely with ingredients that would have been available in the Roman Empire, well before the arrival of tomatoes and mozzarella in Europe.
Zara expressed that curiosity spurred the idea of exploring what pizza might have looked like in ancient times. “We went all the way back to the Roman Empire and wondered whether they even ate pizza at the time,” he said. Although the concept of pizza did not exist, the Romans enjoyed oven-baked flatbreads topped with various herbs, cheeses, and sauces, which are seen as the direct predecessors to the modern pizza. These ancient flatbreads were often sold in thermopolia, ancient Roman snack bars.
The inspiration for this unique project was further ignited by the recent archaeological discovery of a fresco in Pompeii that depicted a focaccia-like flatbread adorned with pomegranate seeds, dates, spices, and a pesto-like spread. “That made me very curious about what kind of flavor this food might have had,” Zara remarked. This curiosity led to the creation of a pizza that reflects the flavors and ingredients prevalent in the Roman era.
To create this pizza, Zara meticulously researched Roman culinary history, consulting a German historian and referencing an ancient cookbook, De re coquinaria, believed to be authored around the 5th century. He compiled a list of historically documented ingredients which were presented to the pizzeria’s head chef, László Bárdossy. “We sat down to imagine what we might be able to make using these ingredients, without using things like tomatoes and mozzarella,” Zara explained, emphasizing the need to exclude all ingredients originating from the Americas.
The creative constraints imposed by the absence of modern conveniences, such as reliable water sources, posed challenges for the team. “The fact that there wasn’t infrastructure like a water system at the time of the Romans made things difficult for us, since more than 80% of pizza dough is water,” said Bárdossy. After months of experimentation and some initial failures, the chefs found a solution by utilizing fermented spinach juice to help the dough rise. They used ancient grains like einkorn and spelt, commonly cultivated during Roman times, resulting in a slightly denser dough compared to contemporary pizzas.
The finished pizza features toppings characteristic of Roman aristocratic cuisine, including epityrum (an olive paste), garum (a fermented fish sauce), confit duck leg, toasted pine nuts, ricotta, and a grape reduction. “Our creation can be called a modern pizza from the perspective that we tried to make it comprehensible for everyone,” Bárdossy noted, acknowledging that while the pizza may appeal to a niche market, most diners still prefer conventional options. “It’s something special,” he concluded.
This experiment reflects Neverland Pizzeria’s broader philosophy of blending innovation with tradition. Zara emphasized the importance of both creativity and adherence to culinary heritage. However, he also recognized certain boundaries, stating firmly, “We do a lot of experimentation with our pizzas. But of course, we definitely do not use pineapple.”
