LONDON (AP) – The Victoria & Albert Museum in London is set to unveil a groundbreaking exhibition dedicated to the bold and surrealist designs of the renowned Italian fashion house Schiaparelli. Titled “Schiaparelli: Fashion Becomes Art,” the exhibition highlights a century of innovation and artistry, from the iconic dresses created in collaboration with Salvador Dalí in the 1930s to the stunning red carpet gowns donned by contemporary stars like Ariana Grande.
The exhibition will showcase over 400 objects that provide a comprehensive look at the legacy of founder Elsa Schiaparelli. Visitors will see how Schiaparelli intersected the worlds of fashion and fine art, working alongside prominent artists in Paris during her heyday. Current creative director Daniel Roseberry has continued this legacy by crafting sculptural designs that attract global attention, dressing celebrities such as Margot Robbie.
According to museum director Tristram Hunt, the exhibition honors Schiaparelli as “one of the most ingenious and daring designers in fashion history.” Among the highlights is Dalí’s infamous Lobster Telephone from 1938, displayed alongside the whimsical “Lobster Dress,” a striking white silk gown adorned with a red lobster that Schiaparelli crafted in collaboration with the surrealist icon. This gown was memorably worn by Wallis Simpson, the American socialite who captured the heart of King Edward VIII.
Another noteworthy piece is the “Skeleton dress,” a black garment featuring 3D quilting that mimics human bone structure, which curator Rosalind McKever described as a "punk look" that was shocking for its time when first presented in 1938. The exhibition also includes an evening coat embellished with pink silk roses, the result of a collaboration between Schiaparelli and the French artist Jean Cocteau, who passed away in 1963.
Rosalind McKever emphasizes the unique nature of Schiaparelli's work, mentioning that her contemporary Coco Chanel referred to her as “that Italian artist who’s making clothes.” This description would likely have been embraced by Schiaparelli herself, as she immersed herself in the artistic community of her time. She famously stated, “For me, dress designing is not a profession, but an art.”
Elsa Schiaparelli opened her first Paris business in 1927, initially designing practical garments such as trouser suits, which were unconventional for women during that era. Alongside these practical creations, she also introduced imaginative items, including shoes adorned with leopard fur. Over the years, her clientele grew to include iconic figures such as Mae West and Marlene Dietrich, who were drawn to Schiaparelli’s sharply tailored suits.
Although Schiaparelli retired in the 1950s and passed away in 1973, Daniel Roseberry has revitalized the brand, infusing it with modern interpretations while maintaining its couture drama and artistic heritage. One of the most striking displays in the exhibition features a stunning red jewel-encrusted gown worn by Ariana Grande during her medley performance at the Academy Awards in 2022. This captivating ball gown features a ruby slipper protruding from its back, paying homage to “The Wizard of Oz.”
Additionally, the exhibition will present sparkling display cases filled with unique jewelry, buttons, and perfume bottles, each designed to resemble a work of art. “Schiaparelli: Fashion Becomes Art” opens this Saturday and will run until November 8, making it a must-see event for fashion enthusiasts and art lovers alike.
